However, the speed that can be obtained by using Quickshade has allowed me to start work on a large Confederate Army at the same time! And if the ability to work on a second army at the same time isn\'t a ringing endorsement, well, then I\'m not sure you are miniature wargmer. I\'m currently working on a Napoleonic Army and I\'ve decided that I will continue to paint this in my traditional style. I showed the miniatures to some of the other gamers here at the office, and everyone was in agreement. Also, it coats the miniature in a very strong layer of varnish that provides serious protection. I don\'t really understand it, but somehow the dip runs into all the right places giving a great shading effect. So the final verdict? Actually, they are pretty darn good. The final step was to hit them with a blast of matt varnish. It takes a full 24 hours before they lose their stickiness. The original Quickshade is different An entirely unique product on the market, it will enable you to paint your the army of your dreams in no time at all. I (carefully) shook off the excess dip and left them to dry. Using a pair of pliers, I dunked in the Celts feet first. If you decided to use it, do so in a well-ventilated place. It has the consistency of motor oil and stinks of turpentine. Now I think it is only fair to warn people, the stuff is foul. When I finished, the figures looked depressingly basic. I could probably have cut this in half if I had started with flesh coloured primer. In this way it took me about 20 minutes to paint a figure. Therefore QuickShade is the better product of the two, but it does cost nearly twice as much. When you\'ve been painting miniatures for years, it is hard to suddenly stop using techniques, but I managed to force myself to a one area/one colour system. Additionally I noticed that the QS doesnt stain and dull colors as much as I remember the Miracle Dip method did. I grabbed a couple of Celts, sprayed on a black undercoat and got to painting. Only your creativity sets the limits of what can be achieved with our washes. Or achieve a lighter shading effect that better fits lighter colours. Since the main selling point of the Quickshade (or \'the dip\' as I\'ve taken to calling it) seems to be the speed at which you can paint, I decided I would employ no techniques what-so-ever. With our Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium you can thin our Quickshade Washes to ensure an even smoother transition, by glazing it on in a couple of applications. Still, curiosity got the better of me, and I did have a box of the new Warlord Plastic Celts laying around. So, when I was first handed a can of the new Army Painter - Quickshade, I turned up my nose and scoffed loudly. My own style tends to involve black-lining, dry brushing, and layering in that order. Now, when it comes to miniature painting, I\'m a bit of a traditionalist. That is, taking a quickly painted miniature and then dipping it into a shading solution to provide instant depth to a paint job. This is, of course my own personal experience between the two, another Dakka member might have had different results between the methods, But where ive just been working on afew units of bone white skeletons using the dip method, i think it should give a close example to a standard menoth color set.There has been a lot of talk lately in the wargame community about “dipping”. Secondly, it should give a subtle gradient to your flat surfaces, giving alittle more interest to what would have otherwise been a single shade, without, if its applied correctly, leaving behind patches of pigment that mar your color and work. First, like the oil wash it should pick out and shade the crevices, and line around detail. Using a Polyurethane dip, such as the Army Painter Quickshade, or even going the cheeper route and picking some minwax wood stain, It should work two fold. Over a flat surface, from what i've noticed, the oil wash tends to clump and dry into not so pleasant looking blotches of pigment. Using an Oil wash, your primary goal is to line and shade all areas that are sunken into the miniature, or act as a borderline between say, the greater shoulder pad, and the menofix in the center. The general thought, at least on my end, is something like this.
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